Guide To Living As An Expat in The Maldives : My Story + Tips
Travel + Adventures
The Maldives.
Just these two words and anyone would think of the turquoise water, white beaches, perfectly constructed ocean villas, the archipelago of islands and the stunning aerial view from above. Indeed, these were everything of it. And even more, the Maldives was the longest country I have lived besides home in Singapore. A home for the best 2.5 years of my life. This is a post for those who are seeking to move to the Maldives or are already there.
my story
If you are new here (Welcome!) and haven’t read my About Me, I am a diving instructor currently living in Palau in the West Pacific Ocean. I became a dive instructor back in 2014 in New Zealand whilst studying Marine Biology. It was a paramount moment in my life. I knew immediately it will be an opportunity that could take me anywhere in the world. I am a Singaporean Chinese and hence I speak fluent English and Mandarin. Likewise with every instructor based jobs, your opportunity takes you as far as the number and type of languages you speak. I studied German for 7 years back when I was in Singapore but lost touch a lot with it without practicing it. My time in Mexico definitely helped me in brushing up my Spanish although Im only as conversational as I can get with the basics and by listening to my Reggaeton and Spanish songs (hello Reik, Farruko, Enrique Iglesias, Maluma, Sebastian Yatra, Chino y Nacho, La Oreja de Van Gogh..) which I so very adore.
Hence, I am quite versed in a few languages but English and Mandarin are my key languages. So the thing was, I knew Maldives was definitely a destination for me, but in 2014, I wasn’t very sounded for the idea of living on a private island or confident of my ability in Mandarin.
Fast forward 2 years later, I got to the Maldives. I was back in Singapore feeling bottom of the abyss, and I even had a physical health breakdown. I had a small boutique diving company and was doing part time jobs, feeling stressed and stuck. I was fearful of letting go of the diving company. But the truth was, I was fearful of the fear of letting go. That was the difference. And when I finally garnered my courage to, it was the biggest liberation of my shoulders and the greatest feeling ever. I immediately applied for several jobs in the Maldives and within a span of 3 days, I got accepted to all of them. The entire process was quick and smooth sailing. Im a firm believer of energies and Destiny. When certain things are just meant for you, it just falls in place perfectly. Effortlessly. I just took a few wrong, longer turns to get there.
That was how my first month in Angsana Velavaru was for me. Effortless. It was perfect.
My health improved and I was so very much present, calmer and happy. It took a little over 2 years, but Destiny wanted me to get to the Maldives and I did in the end. And little did I know, it became a special place in my heart and one of my favourite places in the world. I also fell in love. I fell in love with a Maldivian man who will always hold a special place in my heart. And its the same reason, I also fell rock bottom again and dived heavily into spirituality. But in it, I have also learnt about letting go again. Letting go of us into the ethers. Releasing us into love, healing and growth.
An introduction to Maldives
Geography and Religion
Maldives is a country in the Indian Ocean consisting of 22 administrated atolls of approximately 1200 islands. Geographically, it is located southwest of India and Sri Lanka. It has a population of 400,000 people. It is a muslim country and hence no consumption and import of pork and alcohol are allowed- unless in the resorts. Social ethics like covering up your shoulders and knees and dressing conservatively are also highly advisable in public areas. Islam dictates the life of Maldivians by large and during religious observance events like Ramadan, Eid-it is important to respect them. All resorts have a mosque and some local islands even have multiple mosques in it. Most religious muslims pray up to 5 times a day.
Economy and Language
Nearly a third of its population are expats from Sri Lanka, Bangladesh, China, India, Philippines and other South East Asia Countries. It is also the smallest nation in South Asia and the country depends heavily on the tourism industry alongside its fishing industry. Its capital is called Male and it is not the same location as Male International Airport(now known as Velana International Airport). Its main language is called Dhivelhi although most people (except those of the older generation islanders) who work in the tourism industry speak relatively good English. Both USD and Maldivian Rufiyaas are used in the Maldives.
Local Food Culture
Maldivians are one of the most welcoming and hospitable people in the world. They are very proud of their country and will always extend their invitation to their homes for snacks or a meal when you visit their local island and homes. In terms of their local cuisine, Maldivian food is influenced by Indian and Sri Lankan flavours and characterised by coconut, tuna and starch. The most common dish is called, Garudhiya which is a clear fish broth- usually tuna or reef fish, eaten with a side of lime, chilli and roti. Short Eats are a local favourite snack which are simply fried pastries (in various shapes that looks like falafel) filled usually with dried and chopped tuna as a filling. Another Maldivian food, called Mas Huni is a breakfast dish of tuna and coconut which is a very popular local breakfast dish. Most dishes are accompanied and eaten with roshie which is a thinner type of flatten dough similar to roti from India.
Climate
The weather in Maldives is ruled by two main monsoon seasons, the Southwest Monsoon and the Northeast Monsoon. The Southwest begins around May to October and brings strong wind, light rain to heavy storms with moderate to rough seas. The Northeast begins around November to April and is characterised by little rainfall, wind and calmer seas. Being in the middle of the Indian Ocean, Maldives is susceptible to tropical storms and indirect cyclone influence. Hence, weather changes relatively fast and in recent years, the monsoon season has not been very consistent. Calm seas can be expected in the middle of June and storms even in the months of November and December. It is highly recommended to check the weather forecast for daily activities.
resort life in the maldives
In my 2.5 years in the Maldives, I worked in Angsana Velavaru Resort and Spa and Velaa Private Island as a Chinese Speaking Dive Instructor. Like many who are moving to Maldives under a work contract, you should be engaged by one of the many resorts in the Maldives. The resort will be taking care of your entry from work permits, to bank account opening and a medical clearance. The truth is, the resort life is quite different from the life of tourists. However it does paint a similar picture in some sense.
Each resort will offer you a different set of benefits as an employee and it also depends on your grade or level in the company. In terms of renumeration, all staff are paid with a basic salary and a service charge monthly. A basic salary is basically a specific amount for the job. Service charge is an amount of the money taken by the government from the resort owners and split equally among the permanent staff of the resort. The more money the guests spent on and is generated by the resort, the higher is the service charge. Hence, the occupancy and the revenue of the resort is directly proportional to the amount of service charge monthly. A service charge can vary from $100USD and up to $3000 USD a month. For many expats, this is a huge amount and it is understandable that most would prefer to work in higher scale- luxurious resort. I was fortunate to be able to work in a luxurious resort for a few months. But inevitably, the higher the service charge, so is your cost of freedom.
Working in a resort means living in the staff quarters of the resort. Life in a small island is simple and it is definitely walkable everywhere. Meals are eaten in the staff canteen or if your grade allows -guests restaurants. Your accommodation type depends on your grade level. The best part about working in a resort is that you don’t have much means to spend on anything and therefore you do save the bulk of your salary. And if you are a dive instructor like me, working in the Maldives as a dive instructor is definitely the best paying and earning you will ever find in the world.
Every resort has a few hundred people in it and everyone has a role to play. Each resort has a set of rules and regulations to comply with as an employee. The benefit grid is very important in determining the quality of life as an employee in the resort. Most resorts, have restrictions in access to guest compound unless in uniform. Some resorts allow staff within specific guest areas.
MY EXPERIENCE
During my time in Angsana Velavaru (sister of Banyan Tree) as a diving instructor, I was allowed and welcomed in the guest bar and in some guest areas such as the lagoon, our marine center and our water sports center. I would always seize opportunity to savour the stunning sunset or an evening swim/kite after work. We were encouraged to participate in bar activities like the weekly Boduberu performance, Dj nights and movie nights. We were encouraged to mingle with our guests. Sometimes, we were also invited for meals by the guests. I even had a bar allowance that allowed me to consume 3 alcoholic drinks, unlimited non alcoholic drinks in a day.
I was also allowed to go kitesurfing whenever I was off from work or after work hours. Beach usage was allowed in front of the water sports center. There were a staff gym and a recreational area within the staff compound. I had a small, great team and we worked closely with the marine team in some of their surveys and weekly conservation activities. I was allowed to collect my days off (once a week) and therefore I worked every day. Each time I would get about a month off about 3 times a year when I collected my off days with annual leaves. This isn’t common at all for a resort life. I would consider this resort one that gratifies a lot of freedom to the staff.
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However, it wasn’t so fortunate for my time in Velaa Private Island. Being a higher end- luxurious resort, guest privacy was the topmost priority. We were not allowed at any guest public area unless in uniform. There were a staff beach, small strip of area in the lagoon for us to swim in, a well stocked staff store, a fully equipped gym, a staff bar and a recreational area including a pool. There was definitely more amenities for the staff within the staff compound than any resorts I have been in.
For guest restaurants usage, we had to make a request form and obtain approvals from the management. There was no bar allowance for the staff bar but drinks were about a few dollars for a can of beer or a glass of wine. In terms of the staff canteen, there was a large variety of healthier choices in comparison to the previous resort I worked before. There was a sandwich area, salad area, dessert area, asian and western flavours at all times. Staff were able to enjoy up to 50-60% discount on recreational activities and dining in all restaurants in our resort. I was not allowed to collect my days off for my time in this resort and had to get 1 day off a week as per contract.
Aerial view of Angsana Velavaru by Ikram Sharyf.
Aerial view of Angsana Velavaru photo by Ikram Sharyf.
Below are my personal tips for your move to work in the Maldives:
Ask Questions
Your benefit and remuneration package is very important. Ask about your accommodation arrangement, dress code ( some resorts require you to dress conservatively even in staff compound, some resorts are fine), days off (Can you collect your days off?), activities availability and dining/spa staff discounts, free return ticket upon completion of contract? (My resort allowed us to have a free return ticket of Male to Sri Lanka value every half a year), staff access, F&F benefit (Also know as family and friends benefit- some resorts allow you to bring your love ones for a discounted value in the resort or a yearly few nights for free), not forgetting your roles and responsibilities for your job etc.
Stock Up Your Essential Supplies
This could range from daily usage like shampoo, body wash, movies and series, to women feminine products, (skincare, contacts and solution, tampons, menstrual cup, pads). Most staff store are well stocked with conventional brands. But if you use specific brands or have requirements, (like i do such as SLS and paraben free products) i advise you to bring them. And you really don’t need so many clothes.
Embrace The Simple Life
Work takes up most of your time here in the resort. Social time is usually after work hours or in between during breaks. You may have a staff bar or none. You are mostly going to be enjoying your time unwinding in bed alone. You will learn to embrace solitude and realise how simple life can be and it is a beautiful thing.
Get Into The Ocean
What is the difference between working in an office in your home country or your previous job in another country and working in a resort in the Maldives? The answer is the environment! Being on an island, you are surrounded by the stunning body of water. Get out there. Savour that sunset. Go for an evening swim. Or if you can’t, learn to swim or snorkel. Try windsurfing. Get that paddles and go for an exploration in a kayak. Do that diving course. Learn a new skill. For me, I learnt kitesurfing which I will be writing about in the next post. Nature is the best teacher and contains so much beauty. In a paradise like this, there are infinite ways to feel connected with nature. Don’t ever forget you live in one.
Learn Some Dhivelhi
Majority of your colleagues are going to be Maldivians. It is respectful and kind to learn some of their language.
Simple phrases like,
Hello- Assalaa mu alaikum
Thank you- Shukuriyaa
How are you- Kihineh haalu
Im fine, Thank you- Aharen ge haalu rangalhu Shukuriyaa
You are welcome- Maruhaba
Good morning- Baajaveri hendhunakah edhen
Good night- Baajaveri reygandakah edhen
Understanding The Resort Social Culture
This last tip isn’t something discussed openly but it is dedicated specifically to female expats who are moving to Maldives for the first time. It is not intended to cause any outrage but a mere truthful fact from a female expat who used to live in the Maldives.
In the Maldives, because of the strong influence of its religion and societal pressure,it is common for Maldivians to be married at a young age. Most men will have to leave their spouse and work in the tourism industry. Some are fortunate to be able to work together with their spouse in the same resort. Some of them work in resorts which are just a neighbouring island to their home island. Most of them, however work in resorts which are hours away by boat and flight. Like us, they only have about a maximum of 2-3 months of vacation in a year which most will use to be with their family. And the remaining time they are working in a resort. This long distance isn’t a healthy factor in any relationships including spouses to parental- child relationships. Maldives has also the highest divorce rate in the world.
This brings me to my next point, whereby it is common for local men to have island relationships. Or an island girlfriend. And they can be single or even married men. And it is usually targeted on foreign women. This statement is not meant to or by any means driven towards all Maldivian men working in a resort but it is definitely an uprising trend. I personally find it repulsing but I have grown to accept that this is part of their resort social culture. Many of them are also great, kind and respectful co workers that I enjoyed working with. It is important to not be overwhelmed by the social culture within a resort life and hence I find a need to be sharing this with you all.
Living in a new country or a new environment is not the easiest thing for anyone. Maldives will always hold a profound and beautiful memory in my heart. I have learnt a lot and has definitely evolved and grown emotionally, physically and spiritually during my time there. I have made friendships that will last a lifetime. And I hope your Maldives’s experience will be as beautiful as mine too.
Been there and done that? Definitely comment and share with me how your experience has been.
For dive instructors, If you are interested about moving to Palau, below is a guide for you!
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I am Sylvia— the founder, writer, intuitive healer, and human design reader of Arawme. “Arawme” is basically, a raw me put together.
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