Travel & Adventures

((Please note that I no longer live in Palau and most of my network in Palau has moved on from the tiny nation. I will not respond to any requests for networking/advice moving forward. ))

Palau.

Unless a diving enthusiast, one would rarely know of its name or commonly mistake this country for Palawan, a popular archipelagic province of islands southwest of the Philippines. Known for its top-notched diving sites, pristine reefs, abundant marine life, historical significance and enchanting seascape, The Republic of Palau is dubbed the “Underwater Serengeti” of the world.

It was also the last country I called home and one where I left a part of my heart in.

This is a post dedicated to any diving professionals or expats seeking to move there- or already did.

My story

If you are new on this website, I am Sylvia- a digital creator of Arawme who has worked as a diving instructor in the past few years of my life. Palau was my last destination.

Funnily, when I set out to accept the position as a Chinese Speaking Dive Instructor in my Chinese/local company in Palau, I knew I was not going to fulfill the 1-year contract. I knew it deep down that it was going to be my last destination as a full-time diving instructor. Perhaps, it was that inner guiding voice of my spirit whispering to me a different direction, I knew a pivotal shift was awaiting within my being. That direction led me to the birth of Arawme.

Before Palau, I was working in the Maldives full-time where I worked in 2 luxurious resorts (Velaa Private Island & Angsana Velavaru Resort & Spa) as a Chinese Speaking Diving Instructor. (You could read more about it here) I knew I wanted a country where I could work outside a resort, like in a quiet town or suburb. I was restless from living the confinement of resort rules.

Hailing from Singapore, Mandarin was my second language and English was the first- hence I speak fluently in both of these languages. In the instructor world, regardless if you are a yoga/snowboarding/skiing/free-diving instructor, one would know the ceaseless opportunities that speaking a few languages could offer. I was very fortunate to be given the opportunity to land myself in Palau. It was a destination only diving enthusiasts would read about in magazines and stumbled on in diving exhibitions and because of its remoteness, it was not a destination many would conveniently consider to go to.

Its geographical isolation marked the covetable appeal as to why I accept the job opportunity as a diving instructor. Each daily commute to the Southern Rock Islands was an affair with the mushroom-dome shaped limestone islands and islets. Its delicate forest capped cover, steep slopes and its turquoise shades of blue water always leave a profound impression to any traveler. Strategically located within two deep channels to the east and west (The Philippines trench and Palau Trench), cold nutrient-rich upwellings present a world-class diving experience of no other.

During my time there, it was a bittersweet and short-lived experience. The beauty of the sea and landscapes that Palau offered was unparalleled and breathtaking in so many ways. A place so special that it claimed a special spot in my heart. But I had also a not so positive experience working with that particular company I was in and hence I decided to leave. As a dive professional who strongly believes in maintaining the highest professionalism, service and safety standards to all guests, I knew that company was not for me. Even though I had to leave, I made some really amazing friendships through work (outside work, love too) and will always keep these memories close to my heart.

It is my goal to provide you with a complete and honest guide to moving and living in Palau as an expat.

An Introduction To Palau

Pioneering Conservation Efforts

Palau is the first country in the world that declared itself a shark sanctuary in 2009 prohibiting any form of commercial fishing of sharks within its waters. This conservation effort spearheaded other countries to follow suit including the Maldives, Honduras, Bahamas and Tokelau. Even as a young nation, Palau reigns at the forefront of marine conservation and sustainable fishing. 2020 marks its eleventh year as a shark sanctuary and it's not surprising to wonder why travelers kept coming back. In 2019, Palau became the first country in the world that requires ALL visitors to sign a mandatory Palau Pledge on their passports at immigration. It was a pledge that was drafted based on the children of Palau under the Palau Legacy Project aimed to protect its nation from environmental damages. This ensures that tourists who set foot on the nation would firmly comply, uphold and act in an ecologically responsible way during their visit. Other nations including New Zealand and US state Hawaii have since followed suit.

Palauans have a strong sense of local cultural, historical wisdom and respect to conserve its environment. According to ABC News, in January 2020, Palau also became the first nation that bans reef-toxic sunscreen and only allows the use of reef-safe sunscreen within its waters. Recent studies have also shown that the coral reef systems in Palau, dubbed “super corals” are more resilient towards heat and pH than in other parts of the world.

Geography and Economy

Palau is southwest of the Philippines and about 800 miles from Guam. Home to a tiny population of only 21,000 people, this far-flung nation of Palau sits in the middle of the West Pacific Ocean. Due to its remoteness, Palau is not very accessible with direct flights only from Taiwan, South Korea, Guam and the Philippines. Hence flights are fairly expensive looking at an average of $500USD one way in and out of Palau.

The nation’s economy is heavily dependent on tourism, subsistence agriculture, fishing and foreign aid. Being a renowned diving destination, many foreign visitors especially from South Korea, Japan, Taiwan, China and others ( Europe, USA) flock to Palau for its unique and vibrant seascapes. There is a large and considerably close-knitted community of expats working mainly within the tourism, government and education industries. Palau has strong foreign relations with Taiwan, Japan, Philippines and America.

history and culture

As a relatively young nation, Palau only claimed its full sovereignty in 1994. It had opted out of joining the Federated States of Micronesia in 1979. It was previously occupied and ruled since the late 1600s by the Spaniards, then the Germans, then the Japanese during WWI and finally Americans when they defeated the Japanese during the Battle of Peleliu in WWII. Although its early history is still unknown, it was believed that today’s Palauans are distant relatives of Melanesians, Polynesians and the Malays of Indonesia.

Modern-day Palau is largely americanized although there is a strong emphasis on preserving their cultural and historical roots with regular and ongoing cultural activities. Men and women still have defined roles. A council of chiefs governs the villages, while a parallel council of women holds an advisory role in the control of land, money, and the chief selections.

Palauans are one of the friendliest and most hospitable people I have ever met. They take great pride in their environment, their cultural identity and historical heritage. They are largely welcoming to foreigners and various cultural differences. However, likewise in other countries, any form of prejudice against the locals is not taken lightly or tolerated. Modern and western concepts like feminism is still not taken very openly and may cause some debate/interesting conversation (true story with personal experience!). It is common to receive a form of salutation in everyday interactions. “Alii!” or “Tutau!” is a typical greeting between the locals. Chewing and spitting of the betel nut juice is a common cultural practice with the locals too.

climate

Palau maintains a tropical rainforest climate where they is no apparent dry season and rainfall occurs throughout the year.

It has an annual temperature of 28-30 degrees. Situated next to the Philippines Sea and in the West Pacific Ocean, Palau can be subjected to strong monsoon winds. The dry season (winter) begins from November to April and is characterized by calmer seas and little rainfall with the northeast monsoon wind. The wet season (summer) runs from July to October bringing the southwest monsoon wind and is characterized by rougher seas and more rainfall. There is still sunshine throughout the year where rain/downpour only lasts a few hours to a few days. Palau remains relatively typhoon free as it sits at outside the trail of the typhoon corridor, however, the last strong typhoon in 2013 with Typhoon Haiyan destroyed not only many houses but also pristine reef systems. Temperature in the water varies from 26 to 29 degrees and may drop to lower temperatures at greater depths in the winter season. Because most tours in the Rock Island Southern Lagoon depart from Koror, boat rides range from 20minutes to over an hour to get to these sites. The best time to visit is during the dry season where the sea is usually the calmest- a paramount condition for diving, snorkeling and the boat journey.

Local Food Culture and language

Like other pacific nations, palauan food has a lot of root vegetables namely taro, yam, pandan and pumpkin. Eating fresh local seafood is also a staple for most Palauans. Most of the packet food you will see in small shops are all heavily influenced by many Asian cuisines like noodles, adobo chicken, fried rice, sushi, etc. Restaurants within Koror offer a wide range of varieties from Japanese, Indian, American, Thai, Korean, Italian, Chinese, etc- all with and without some Palauan twist in it. A rather famous local delicacy is the fruit bat soup whereby the entire fruit bat is boiled and served in a coconut broth. This can be found in many restaurants along the downtown of Koror. Taro is a root foot that is only exclusively grown by the women of Palau and usually served in the form of taro cakes, soups and salads. Another local dish to try is the mangrove/land crab or otherwise known as chukaib where it is cooked in coconut milk and available in local menus.

The main languages of Palau are English and Palauan. The main currency is USD. Hence the cost of living can be higher than other Pacific nations- especially in recent years.

BELOW ARE MY PERSONAL TIPS FOR YOUR MOVE TO WORK IN Palau

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BE PATIENT

If you were hired from abroad like I was, you would have experienced the complications and lengthy application process that was required to work in Palau. You will need to complete and submit a type-written document for the provisional visa first before you fly over to Palau. And only when you are there can you properly apply for a work permit. And if you were a diving instructor like I was, you will need to complete the tour guide license which is a week course and examination that is only available once a month.

From setting up a bank account (I recommend Bank of Hawaii for expats) to setting up your home internet, Palau has really tested my patience. You will notice that data is quite expensive considering that 4G was only recently introduced in 2019. I would recommend Palau Cel as the service provider and to get a wifi system at PNCC (located at downtown Koror). It was cheaper to get wifi within your home compound as it is unlimited while data/airtime runs up very quickly. The people are fantastic but it is still a developing country so it takes a while to set anything and everything up. Focus on the nature and pristine environment- good things are worth the wait. Patience is a virtue in the land of Palau- even underwater. Everything runs on island time.

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get a car

Public transport is pretty much non-existent in Palau although there are some cabs around. It can be difficult to get to all places by foot and bicycles are not most common yet. I would recommend getting a car when you arrive in Palau. One can order secondhand/new cars from Japan or check out bulletins outside the main shopping malls. Palau Buy, Sell and Trade is a good Facebook group to look at for they often post about secondhand cars. Cars do go as low as $600USD but I would recommend having a mechanic to give it a full inspection before making any form of payment. There is not much of a “traffic” at all in Palau unless its after work hours or during the paydays of the month. For those who do not have a driving license, getting a Palau driving license is very easy and cheap, presumedly < $30USD. However, there are many on the roads that do not have a driving license and seat belts are not mandatory- thus I would recommend taking precautions each time you are on the road. If you are visiting Palau, most companies/resorts/restaurants offer pickup services. But if you intend to drive up North yourself and opt-out of a land tour, I would recommend renting a car and it costs around $35USD/day.

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LEARN SOME PALAUAN LANGUAGE

The majority of your colleagues will be Palauans, be respectful and kind by learning more about their language and use them in your daily conversations.

Hello- Alii

Thank you- Sulang

Good morning- Ungiil tutau

Good night- Ungiil kebesengei

How are you- Keuangerang

I am well- Ak mesissiich

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Head up north

Besides the Rock Island Southern Lagoon( RISL) where I spent most of time as a diving instructor, my favorite place in Palau would be up North in Babeldaob. I was fortunate to be able to explore some waterfalls and the more sparsely populated states that were all unique and beautiful. The roads are well paved and the drive is extremely scenic. Landscaped tropical plants and endemic vegetation will be welcoming you the entire length of the drive. My favorite drive would be the drive all the way to Ngarchelong which is the northern tip of the island of Babeldaob and across you will be able to see the islands of Kayangel. It has one of the best spots for the most beautiful sunset I have ever seen. Life in these states is a lot slower and peaceful, however, you would need to know some locals to be able to visit any of those beaches as many are private properties. Take a drive up with your friends and enjoy a picnic or a barbecue. The drive could take up from half a day to a full day depending on the number of stops you make along the way.

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Get outdoors as much as you can

Palau is one of the two countries in the world where there are jellyfish lakes. In Palau, there are eight of these unique marine lakes. But only one is open to the public. Many in the world flock to Palau for this same reason. In the marine lake, Ongeim’l Tketau, there are the golden jellyfish (Mastigias sp) and the moon jellyfish (Aurelia sp). Both are extremely delicate and stunning. These jellyfishes have evolved and adapted to the new environment of the marine lakes, and without its natural predators, they have lost their stinging mechanism and are able to live solely on the algae. It is important to be very gentle and minimal with your fin kicks and to not remove any jellyfish out of the water. It is one of the splendors of Mother Nature at your doorstep. If you do not know how to swim, snorkel or dive, I heavily urge you to get those done especially when you are living in such a paradise. There are many snorkeling and diving gems within its water and you are living in the middle of it all. Kayaking is also an activity I would recommend getting into as nothing can come close to kayaking in the midst of these limestone islands. If you are a history buff yourself, Peleliu state is definitely a place you should visit. Camping in the rock islands is one activity I did not get a chance to do, do it during either on a full moon/new moon night and let me know how it was for you!

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GET connected with other expats and the locals

It can get a little lonely and jaded at times even if you are living in paradise. The expat community is usually very acquainted with one another and I would recommend you to reach out. Sometimes during the month, they would go out together for a rock island trip, scuba-diving for the divers, or a weekly volleyball session by long island park. I did not really make friends until the second month of my stay as I was really busy with work and focused a large bit of my time hustling on Arawme. Of all the friendships I made then, there are a few I still am in contact with. If you feel like you do not know where to start, send me an email/drop a comment and I will direct you to the best person! Besides the fact that the locals are great people, getting acquainted with locals is very helpful as they will usually bring you to secret spots in the islands you never heard of. Most locals catch specific seafood within their families and having that friendship does help your stomach sometimes.

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Shop Seasonal and local

Most of the food that you will find in the local supermarkets are all imported. I would recommend purchasing seasonal vegetables and locally grown/made products. There are a few farms up in Babeldaob that grow seasonal and all-year vegetables. Little Bangladeshi stores also offer more local produces that are cheaper than those in the supermarkets. One of my favorite local products is a locally made reef-safe sunscreen brand, Pura Vida Palau and you can find these items in most souvenir shops along downtown Palau.

That is all for me!

I hope this article has given you much information about beautiful Palau as well as an honest guide on moving and living there. I was the only Singaporean woman who lived there during my time and probably the first the nation had. I cannot emphasize how much Palau means to me in my heart and perhaps I may return, or not. Until then, I hope this article helped you in some ways or the other.

Please note that I no longer live in Palau and most of my network in Palau has moved on from the tiny nation. I will not respond to any requests for networking/advice moving forward.

If you are a female diving instructor as well, do check out on the link below on my full guide on living in the Maldives as a female expat. Sending you all my love.

Sat Nam.

All my love,

Sylvia

New here?

I am Sylvia— the founder, writer, intuitive healer, and human design reader of Arawme. “Arawme” is basically, a raw me put together.

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